As the month of Dhul Hijjah arrives over 3.5 million Muslims from different corners of the earth converge on the holy city of Makkah to perform the fifth pillar of their faith. In 1998, I too was fortunate to be one among them while I undertook a journey that I had dreamt from my childhood, It was a life time journey, the journey that was literally the most wondrous experience of my life. I had performed Umrah the previous year and was waiting to visit the holiest place on earth again, to experience the joy of watching Ka’bah and to drink the sweet water of Zam Zam. I am sure that a person who visits the holy cities once will yearn to visit it again and again.
My journey started from Kuwait by road. It was an amazing scene at the Kuwait – Saudi border. Swarms of busses were parked as the pilgrims waited to be processed through customs and immigration. It took long hours for us to cross the border but the patience exhibited by the pilgrims was overwhelming although there were long waiting hours with scanty basic facilities. After crossing the border of Kuwait to Saudi Arabia it is an unending stretch of vast desert and mountains, mostly devoid of life and vegetation. I was marveled at their unique colour stripes . It reminded me of the verse in Surah al Fatir, “…and in the mountains are tracts, white and red of varying shades and some extremely black”. I was also astonished at the thought that Prophet Ibrahim (a) along with his wife and infant son had crossed the same desert by foot to reach Makkah.
Another astounding scene was awaiting me as we neared Meeqat, which is a point from where the pilgrim is not allowed to move forward without entering into the state of Ihram. It was as though people from different corners reached there by various means of transport, as the Qur’an says“ And proclaim the pilgrimage among men, they will come to you on foot and [mounted] on every kind of camel, lean on account of journeys through deep and distant mountain highways”
After washing ourselves and entering into the state of Ihram we continued our journey chanting “labbikallahumma Labbaik…", “ here I am O Lord, here am I” As the holy city got closer the chant became louder, showing that the anticipation was unbearable.
It was midnight while we reached Makkah and after the check in at our hotels we headed towards the holy mosque. One of the most unique features of Masjid al Haram is that it looks as though bright lights radiate from it all the time. As I journeyed into the Masjid marveling at its beauty and ambiance, at once I found myself facing the holy Ka’bah, which was standing magnificently as a witness of Tawheed (oneness of Allah) throughout history.
As I performed the Tawaf, offered Salah at Maqam Ibrahim, drank the water of Zam Zam and performed the Saee ( running between mount safa and mount marwa) I recalled the sacrifices made by Prophet Ibrahim (a) , his wife Hajar (a) and his son Ismail (a) while carrying out the orders of Allah. When the rituals were concluded it was time for the Fajr Salah. The enchanting Azan resounded in the whole Masjid and it seemed to be swirling in from all directions.
The next few days in Makkah we visited the historic sites. It is difficult to articulate in words how I felt when I saw the place where the Prophet (pbuh) rode to Makkah when it was conquered without any bloodshed and a general amnesty was declared. My tears could not stop from showing up when I saw the place where the Makkans tortured Bilal (r) . It was indeed a fortune to see the house where Prophet Muhammad (s) was born and lived which is now the location of a library. It was unbelievable that I was standing at the base of Mount Hira’ which had the cave at its top from where the revelation of the Quran started.
At last, the 8th day of Dhul Hijjah arrived. The pilgrims were heading towards Mina. Buses took us to Mina and then we walked with the tide of millions of people towards our tents. I was overwhelmed by the thundering and echoing roar of ‘Labbaik’. It was astonishing to see people removing all outer signs of nationality, of wealth and social status, and wearing a uniform, simple cloth. I felt as though I am marching with millions of soldiers who were heading towards accomplishing an important mission.
The next day was the day of Arafat, the day of Haj. After the Fajr salah the pilgrims journeyed towards the plains of Arafat. The scene there was totally breath taking. I could see people as far as my eye could see. It was truly a global summit of people from every nation and from all walks of life. It was a mammoth gathering to emphasis on the policy of universal brotherhood. At this point I recalled the words of Malcom X , the human rights activist of United states. When he embraced Islam and perfomed Haj he said "Never have I witnessed such sincere hospitality and overwhelming spirit of true brotherhood as is practiced by people of all colors and races here in this ancient Holy Land, the home of Abraham, Muhammad and all the other Prophets of the Holy Scriptures. For the past week, I have been utterly speechless and spellbound by the graciousness I see displayed all around me by people of all colors. There were tens of thousands of pilgrims, from all over the world. They were of all colors, from blue-eyed blondes to black-skinned Africans. But we were all participating in the same ritual, displaying a spirit of unity and brotherhood that my experiences in America had led me to believe never could exist between the white and non-white." I also could’nt believe my eyes while I saw that over 3.5 million people were gathered there and even then there was lots of place for people to move and rest. I could see the same enthusiasm in the young and the old. Everyone seemed to be fit and healthy. May be the power of faith helped everyone to keep the spirits high.
A little before sunset we made our way towards Muzdalifah, where we had to spend that night. As we approached Muzdalifah, I could only see multitudes of people that decorated the whole landscape. It was like an enormous camping site without any tents and only the clear sky above us. We had to collect forty-nine small stones to be used to pelt the stone pillars that represent the Satan. It was a symbolic expression to keep away from the whispers of satan at all times in life. The satan still has the mission of misleading us and causes us to stray from the path of Allah. I really felt a desire to collect a thousand stones so that I can pelt all of them to the satan and keep him permanently away from my life.
The 10th day is called Yawm an Nahr. It is the festival day. Right after the Fajr salah we headed towards Jamarat to pelt stones and then travelled to Makkah to perform Tawaf, cut the hair and intend to sacrifice an animal. The meat is distributed to people in the poorest parts of the world. After performing all the rites of that day it was like the soldiers returned back home after the mission accomplished. During the next two days we spent the nights in Mina and pelted stones on all the three jamarats.
Then came the day of bidding farewell to the holy masjid. We performed the farewell tawaf which was the most emotional experience in my life. After the tawaf I went to the topmost floor of the masjid to get a glimpse of Kaabah from the top. It was an incredible and unbelievable sight. I could see a sea of people moving around Kaabah, in a slow pace, exhibiting total harmony and unison. All were seemed to be carrying out the order of their creator in a precise and accurate order. To top it all I could see the birds too performing tawaf around the Kaabah and chirping the praises of their lord.
We were once again back in our busses heading towards Kuwait. During Hajj I could feel the oneness of Allah through the oneness of those who worshiped him. I remembered death while all the pilgrims were clad in the simple clothing that will cover us during our final journey to the grave. I was refreshed, rejuvenated and overwhelmed at the thought of starting my life in a new phase as I recalled the words of Prophet (s) who said that the one who performs Hajj will return home like a newborn baby.
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