My journey to Ka’bah, a rejuvenating pilgrimage

[email protected] (CD Network)
November 4, 2011

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As the month of Dhul Hijjah arrives over 3.5 million Muslims from different corners of the earth converge on the holy city of Makkah to perform the fifth pillar of their faith. In 1998, I too was fortunate to be one among them while I undertook a journey that I had dreamt from my childhood, It was a life time journey, the journey that was literally the most wondrous experience of my life. I had performed Umrah the previous year and was waiting to visit the holiest place on earth again, to experience the joy of watching Ka’bah and to drink the sweet water of Zam Zam. I am sure that a person who visits the holy cities once will yearn to visit it again and again.

My journey started from Kuwait by road. It was an amazing scene at the Kuwait – Saudi border. Swarms of busses were parked as the pilgrims waited to be processed through customs and immigration. It took long hours for us to cross the border but the patience exhibited by the pilgrims was overwhelming although there were long waiting hours with scanty basic facilities. After crossing the border of Kuwait to Saudi Arabia it is an unending stretch of vast desert and mountains, mostly devoid of life and vegetation. I was marveled at their unique colour stripes . It reminded me of the verse in Surah al Fatir, “…and in the mountains are tracts, white and red of varying shades and some extremely black”. I was also astonished at the thought that Prophet Ibrahim (a) along with his wife and infant son had crossed the same desert by foot to reach Makkah.

Another astounding scene was awaiting me as we neared Meeqat, which is a point from where the pilgrim is not allowed to move forward without entering into the state of Ihram. It was as though people from different corners reached there by various means of transport, as the Qur’an says“ And proclaim the pilgrimage among men, they will come to you on foot and [mounted] on every kind of camel, lean on account of journeys through deep and distant mountain highways”

After washing ourselves and entering into the state of Ihram we continued our journey chanting “labbikallahumma Labbaik…", “ here I am O Lord, here am I” As the holy city got closer the chant became louder, showing that the anticipation was unbearable.

It was midnight while we reached Makkah and after the check in at our hotels we headed towards the holy mosque. One of the most unique features of Masjid al Haram is that it looks as though bright lights radiate from it all the time. As I journeyed into the Masjid marveling at its beauty and ambiance, at once I found myself facing the holy Ka’bah, which was standing magnificently as a witness of Tawheed (oneness of Allah) throughout history.

As I performed the Tawaf, offered Salah at Maqam Ibrahim, drank the water of Zam Zam and performed the Saee ( running between mount safa and mount marwa) I recalled the sacrifices made by Prophet Ibrahim (a) , his wife Hajar (a) and his son Ismail (a) while carrying out the orders of Allah. When the rituals were concluded it was time for the Fajr Salah. The enchanting Azan resounded in the whole Masjid and it seemed to be swirling in from all directions.

The next few days in Makkah we visited the historic sites. It is difficult to articulate in words how I felt when I saw the place where the Prophet (pbuh) rode to Makkah when it was conquered without any bloodshed and a general amnesty was declared. My tears could not stop from showing up when I saw the place where the Makkans tortured Bilal (r) . It was indeed a fortune to see the house where Prophet Muhammad (s) was born and lived which is now the location of a library. It was unbelievable that I was standing at the base of Mount Hira’ which had the cave at its top from where the revelation of the Quran started.

At last, the 8th day of Dhul Hijjah arrived. The pilgrims were heading towards Mina. Buses took us to Mina and then we walked with the tide of millions of people towards our tents. I was overwhelmed by the thundering and echoing roar of ‘Labbaik’. It was astonishing to see people removing all outer signs of nationality, of wealth and social status, and wearing a uniform, simple cloth. I felt as though I am marching with millions of soldiers who were heading towards accomplishing an important mission.

The next day was the day of Arafat, the day of Haj. After the Fajr salah the pilgrims journeyed towards the plains of Arafat. The scene there was totally breath taking. I could see people as far as my eye could see. It was truly a global summit of people from every nation and from all walks of life. It was a mammoth gathering to emphasis on the policy of universal brotherhood. At this point I recalled the words of Malcom X , the human rights activist of United states. When he embraced Islam and perfomed Haj he said "Never have I witnessed such sincere hospitality and overwhelming spirit of true brotherhood as is practiced by people of all colors and races here in this ancient Holy Land, the home of Abraham, Muhammad and all the other Prophets of the Holy Scriptures. For the past week, I have been utterly speechless and spellbound by the graciousness I see displayed all around me by people of all colors. There were tens of thousands of pilgrims, from all over the world. They were of all colors, from blue-eyed blondes to black-skinned Africans. But we were all participating in the same ritual, displaying a spirit of unity and brotherhood that my experiences in America had led me to believe never could exist between the white and non-white." I also could’nt believe my eyes while I saw that over 3.5 million people were gathered there and even then there was lots of place for people to move and rest. I could see the same enthusiasm in the young and the old. Everyone seemed to be fit and healthy. May be the power of faith helped everyone to keep the spirits high.

A little before sunset we made our way towards Muzdalifah, where we had to spend that night. As we approached Muzdalifah, I could only see multitudes of people that decorated the whole landscape. It was like an enormous camping site without any tents and only the clear sky above us. We had to collect forty-nine small stones to be used to pelt the stone pillars that represent the Satan. It was a symbolic expression to keep away from the whispers of satan at all times in life. The satan still has the mission of misleading us and causes us to stray from the path of Allah. I really felt a desire to collect a thousand stones so that I can pelt all of them to the satan and keep him permanently away from my life.

The 10th day is called Yawm an Nahr. It is the festival day. Right after the Fajr salah we headed towards Jamarat to pelt stones and then travelled to Makkah to perform Tawaf, cut the hair and intend to sacrifice an animal. The meat is distributed to people in the poorest parts of the world. After performing all the rites of that day it was like the soldiers returned back home after the mission accomplished. During the next two days we spent the nights in Mina and pelted stones on all the three jamarats.

Then came the day of bidding farewell to the holy masjid. We performed the farewell tawaf which was the most emotional experience in my life. After the tawaf I went to the topmost floor of the masjid to get a glimpse of Kaabah from the top. It was an incredible and unbelievable sight. I could see a sea of people moving around Kaabah, in a slow pace, exhibiting total harmony and unison. All were seemed to be carrying out the order of their creator in a precise and accurate order. To top it all I could see the birds too performing tawaf around the Kaabah and chirping the praises of their lord.

We were once again back in our busses heading towards Kuwait. During Hajj I could feel the oneness of Allah through the oneness of those who worshiped him. I remembered death while all the pilgrims were clad in the simple clothing that will cover us during our final journey to the grave. I was refreshed, rejuvenated and overwhelmed at the thought of starting my life in a new phase as I recalled the words of Prophet (s) who said that the one who performs Hajj will return home like a newborn baby.

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Ram Puniyani
March 8,2020

They say ‘history repeats itself first as a tragedy and then as a farce’. In case of India, communal violence not only keeps repeating itself, the pattern of the tragedy keeps changing every next time. Some features of the violence are constant, but they are under the wraps mostly. The same can be said about the Delhi violence (February 2020). The interpretations, the causative factors are very discernible, but those who are generally the perpetrators have a knack of shifting the blame on the victim community or those who stand for the victims.

As the carnage began presumably in the aftermath of statement of Kapil Mishra of BJP, which was given in front of a top police official, in which he threatened to get the roads emptied. The roots of violence were sown earlier. The interpretations given by the Hindu Nationalist camp is that the riot is due to the changing demographic profile of the area with Muslims increasing in number in those areas, and coming up of Shaheen Bagh which was presented was like ‘Mini Pakistan’. As per them the policies of BJP in matters of triple talaq, Article 370 and CAA, NPR, NRC has unnerved the ‘radical’ elements and so this violence.

As such before coming to the observations of the activists and scholars of communal violence in India, we can in brief say that violence, in which nearly 46 people have died, include one from police and another from intelligence. Majority victims are Muslims. The violence started right under the nose of the police and the ruling party. From the videos and other eye accounts, police not only looked the other way around, at places it assisted those attacking the innocent victims and burning and looting selective shops. Home minister, Amit Shah, was nowhere on the scene. For first three days the rioters had free run. After the paramilitary force was brought in; the violence simmered and slowly reduced in intensity. The state AAP Government, which in a way is the byproduct of RSS supported Anna Hazare movement, was busy reading Hanuman Chalisa and praying at Rajghat with eyes closed to the mayhem going in parts of Delhi.

Communal violence is the sore point of Indian society. It did begin during colonial period due to British policy of ‘Divide and Rule’. At root cause was the communal view of looking at history and pro active British acts to sow the seeds of Hindu-Muslim divide. At other level the administrative and police the British were fairly neutral. On one hand was the national movement, uniting the people and creating and strengthening the fraternal feeling among all Indians. On the other were Muslim Communalists (Muslim League) and Hindu Communalists (Hindu Mahasabha, RSS) who assisted the British goal of ‘divide and rule’ promoting hatred between the communities. After partition the first major change was the change in attitude of police and administration which started tilting against Muslims. Major studies by Dr. Asghar Ali Engineer, Paul Brass and Omar Khalidi demonstrated that anti Muslim bias is discernible in during and after the riots.

Now the partisan role of police has been visible all through. Sri Krishna Commission report brought forth this fact; as did the research of the Ex DIG of UP police Dr. V.N.Rai. Dr. Rai’s studies also concluded that no communal violence can go on beyond 24 hours unless state administration is complicit in the carnage. In one of the violence, investigation of which was done by concerned Citizen’s team (Dhule, 2013) this author observed that police itself went on to undertake the rampage against Muslims and Muslim properties.

General observation about riots is that violence sounds to be spontaneous, as the Home Minister is pointing out, but as such it is well planned act. Again the violence is orchestrated in such a way that it seems Muslims have begun the riots. Who casts the First stone? To this scholars point out that the carnage is so organized that the encircled community is forced to throw the first stone. At places the pretext is made that ‘they’ (minorities) have thrown the first stone.

The pretexts against minorities are propagated, in Gujarat violence Godhra train burning, in Kandhamal the murder of Swami Laxamannand and now Shaheen bagh! The Hindu Muslim violence began as riots. But it is no more a riot, two sides are not involved. It is plain and simple anti Minority violence, in which some from the majority are also the victims.

This violence is possible as the ‘Hate against this minority’ is now more or less structural. The deeper Hate against Muslims and partly against Christians; has been cultivated since long and Hindu nationalist politics, right from its Shakhas to the social media have been put to use for spreading Hatred. The prevalent deeper hate has been supplanted this time by multiple utterances from BJP leaders, Modi (Can be recognized by clothes), Shah (press EVM machine button so hard that current is felt in Shaheen Bagh), Anurag Thakur (Goli (bullet) Maro) Yogi Aditya Nath (If Boli (Words)Do not work Goli will) and Parvesh Varma (They will be out to rape).

The incidental observation of the whole tragedy is the coming to surface of true colors of AAP, which not only kept mum as the carnage was peaking but also went on to praise the role of police in the whole episode. With Delhi carnage “Goli Maro” seems to be becoming the central slogan of Hindu nationalists. Delhi’s this violence has been the first one in which those getting killed are more due to bullets than by swords or knifes! Leader’s slogans do not go in vain! Courts the protectors of our Constitution seem to be of little help as if one of them like Murlidhar Rao gives the verdict to file against hate mongers, he is immediately transferred.

And lastly let’s recall the academic study of Yale University. It concludes; BJP gains in electoral strength after every riot’. In India the grip of communalism is increasing frighteningly. Efforts are needed to combat Hate and Hate mongers.

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Wafa Sultana
April 4,2020

Over the last couple of days when the world was occupied with unifying efforts to fight the deadly Covid19 pandemic, sections of Indian media provided viewers a familiar scapegoat – the Indian Muslims – who are often stereotyped as a community being constantly at loggerheads with the citizenry and the State. Biased media channels were quick to resort to blaming the entire Muslim community for the spread of the disease in the country, thanks to an ill-timed Tablighi Jamaat gathering at its international headquarters in Delhi’s Nizamuddin. Unsurprisingly, the opprobrium was also marked by a sudden spike in WhatsApp forwards of videos with people wearing skullcaps licking spoons and performing Sufi breathing rituals, suggesting some sort of wild conspiracy on the part of the community to spread the virus.  Some media channels were quick to formulate, hypothesize and provide loose definitions of a newly discovered form of Jihad i.e. ‘Corona Jihad ’ thereby vilifying the Islamic faith and its followers.

While the investigation on the culpability of the organizers of the Nizamuddin event is still ongoing, there is enough information to suggest that the meeting was held before any lockdown was in force, and the problem began when there was no way of getting people out once the curfew was announced. Be that as it may, there is little doubt that organizing a meet of such a scale when there is a global pandemic smacks of gross misjudgment, and definitely the organizers should be held accountable if laws or public orders were defied. Attendees who attempt to defy quarantine measures must be dealt with strictly. However, what is alarming is that the focus and narrative have now shifted from the unfortunate event at Nizamuddin to the Tablighi Jamaat itself.

For those not familiar with the Tablighi Jamaat, the organization was founded in 1926 in Mewat by scholar Maulana Mohammad Ilyas. The Jamaat’s main objective was to get Muslim youth to learn and practice pristine Islam shorn of external influences. This is achieved through individuals dedicating time for moral and spiritual upliftment secluded from the rest of the world for a brief period of time. There is no formal membership process. More senior and experienced participants typically travel from one mosque to other delivering talks on religious topics, inviting local youth to attend and then volunteer for a spiritual retreat for a fixed number of days to a mosque in a nearby town or village to present the message to their co-religionists. Contrary to ongoing Islamophobic rhetoric, the movement does not actively proselytize. The focus is rather on getting Muslims to learn the teachings and practices of Islam.  This grassroots India-based movement has now grown to almost all countries with substantial Muslim populations. Its annual meets, or ‘ijtemas’ are among the largest Islamic congregations in the world after the annual Haj. One of the reasons for its popularity and wide network in the subcontinent and wordwide is the fact that it has eschewed the need for scholarly intervention, focusing on peer learning of fundamental beliefs and practice rather than high-falutin ideological debates. The Tablighi Jamaat also distinguishes itself from other Islamic movements through its strictly apolitical nature, with a focus on individual self-improvement rather than political mobilization. Hardships and difficulty in the world are expected to be face through ‘sabr’ (patience) and ‘dua’ (supplication),  than through quest for political power or influence. In terms of ideology, it is very much based on mainstream Sunni Islamic principles derived from the Deobandi school.

So, why is all this background important in the current context? While biased media entities have expectedly brought out their Islamophobic paraphernalia out for full display, more neutral commentators have tried to paint the Tablighi Jamaat as a fringe group and have tried to distance it from 'mainstream Muslims'. While the intent is no doubt innocent, this is a trap we must not fall into. This narrative, unfortunately, is also gaining ground due to apathy some Muslims have for the group, accusing it of being “disconnected from the realities of the world”. Unlike other Muslim organizations and movements, the Tablighi Jamat, by virtue of its political indifference, does not boast of high-profile advocates and savvy spokespersons who can defend it in mainstream or social media.  The use of adjectives such as 'outdated' and 'orthodox' by liberal columnists to describe the Jamaat feeds into the malignant attempt to change the narrative from the control of the spread of the pandemic due to the Nizamuddin gathering to 'raison d'etre' of the organization itself.

A large mainstream religious group like the Tablighi Jamaat with nearly a hundred-year history, normally considered to be peaceful, apolitical and minding its own business is now suddenly being villainized owing to unfortunate circumstances. Biased media reactions filled with disgust and hate seem to feed the Indian public conscience with a danngerous misconception - to be a nominal Muslim is okay but being a practicing one is not.  For those committed to the truth and fighting the spread of Islamophobia, the temptation to throw the entire Tablighi Jamaat under the bus must be resisted.

The writer is a lawyer and research scholar at Qatar University. Her research interests include Islamic law and politics.

Comments

zahoorahmed
 - 
Saturday, 4 Apr 2020

great article! provides a great perspective on tableeg jamat

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