Bollywood influence on fashion trends waning

November 23, 2012

kareena-kapoor


New Delhi, November 23: Be it Madhubala's Anarkali look in "Mughal-e-Azam" or Kareena Kapoor's T-shirt-salwar combo in "Jab We Met", Bollywood has inspired trends down the ages. But that influence seems to be waning due to a variety of reasons, including greater exposure to the West and the move towards more realistic cinema, say designers.

There is also the constant fear of criticism, which has restricted filmmakers from attempting to set fashion trends.

According to veteran designer Ritu Kumar, people were earlier not so exposed to fashion. So every new and unique garment seen on the big screen set a trend. This is no longer the case.


"Initially, costumes, which were off everyday wear for the normal population, did cause a stir and led to fashion influences as the market was starved of such designer wear. But this has largely changed," Kumar, who is yet to design for a Bollywood film, told IANS.

Kumar, who has designed the costumes for Deepa Mehta's "Midnight's Children", hopes the scenario improves.

"The industry still seems to design for individuals. When more holistic designing for a complete film is taken up, the fashion scene in India will mature further."

In the past, Bollywood has given memorable styles to masses. Remember the 1960 period drama "Mughal-e-Azam" when Madhubala as Anarkali sported long flowing kurtas and churidars. Almost five decades later, the eponymous Anarkali kameez is the current rage with everybody, from homemakers to hip Bollywood actresses, wearing it.

In 1994, Madhuri Dixit left a mark with her green embroidered choli paired with a white lehnga and a purple embroidered sari in "Hum Aapke Hain Koun...!". Women lapped up the styles at family weddings. There are so many similar instances. There were Rani Mukerji's "Bunty Aur Babli" suits and then the sari, of course, redefined over and over again with movies like "Chandni", "Main Hoon Naa" and "Dostana".

But new trends are now few and far between.

"The main reason for this is that a lot of stylists of celebrities or films are playing safe with ongoing trends in fashion. They are primarily using outfits which are in fashion, avoiding the risk of fashion faux pas. Thus they are unable to create a new trend," designer Pria Kataaria Puri told IANS.

"Earlier, film costumes were not designed according to what everyone was wearing or according to international trends but were rather filmy or outlandish, rule breaking; and if they worked well, it became a new trend. To create a style, one has to create costumes that are unusual," she added.

Costume designer Payal Saluja, who has worked on Vishal Bhardwaj's "Maqbool", "Ishqiya", "Saat Khoon Maaf" and now "Matru Ki Bijlee Ka Mandola", says the move towards realistic filmmaking in Bollywood has changed the scene.

"Stories are becoming real and connectable for the audience these days. So, the clothes also need to be in tandem. Clothes should never be stronger than the character because then the viewer will only remember the clothes. So it is first important to think of blending costumes into the narrative rather than create fashion trends," Saluja told IANS.

According to designer duo Meera and Muzaffar Ali, one of the leading names in the world of fashion, "costumes (today) are left to stars' whims and their sycophant designers and colours that suit a cameraman".

"Anything and everything in Bollywood can set a trend amidst mindless people who know no better. What concerns me is the style of the film," said Muzaffar Ali, director of the classic "Umrao Jaan".

His wife Meera added: "There were some yesteryear stars who had a body language which made what they wore extremely attractive. They somehow caught the fancy of the audience by getting the colour and mood right, particularly in romantic outdoors... Shammi Kapoor, Dharmendra and at times Dilip Kumar and Dev Anand, but the rest of the film had no look whatsoever. Similarly, women had a story on their face and they knew how to tell it more effectively through their performance."



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Agencies
August 1,2020

Mumbai, Aug 1: Maharashtra Chief Minister Uddhav Thackeray has said that Sushant Singh Rajput case should not be politicised or used to create friction between Maharashtra and Bihar.

Amid the ongoing criticism faced by the Mumbai Police following an investigation into Rajput's death case, the Chief Minister stressed that Mumbai Police is not "inefficient" while appealing those who have any evidence in regard to the case to step forward.

"Mumbai Police is not inefficient. If anyone has any evidence they can bring it to us and we will interrogate and punish the guilty. Please do not use this case (Sushant Singh Rajput death case) as an excuse to create friction between Maharashtra and Bihar," Thackeray said on Friday.

"Bringing politics in the case is the most deplorable thing to do," he added.

Maharashtra government has filed a caveat before the Supreme Court in the Rajput's death case.

Earlier, Bihar government and Rajput's family have filed caveats in the top court seeking to challenge actor Rhea Chakraborty's petition that sought transfer of the FIR registered in Patna to Mumbai in the actor's death case.

"After Bihar government and Rajput's family filed a caveat in the Supreme Court, Maharashtra government has filed a caveat before the SC today to ensure that no order is passed in Rhea Chakraborty's petition case without hearing its (Maharashtra) side," said Sachin Patil, standing counsel for Maharashtra Government.

A caveat is a legal process, in which the party which had filed it before the concerned court, shall have to be heard definitely before the concerned court passes any order in future.

Bihar Police has sought the assistance of Mumbai police to probe the Sushant Singh Rajput case, Mumbai police Crime Branch officials told ANI. However, the Police are still considering their request.

Bihar Police team reached after an FIR was filed by late actor's father KK Singh against Chakraborty in Bihar under several sections including abetment of suicide.

Rajput was found dead in his Mumbai residence on June 14.

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News Network
January 28,2020

Mumbai, Jan 28: A 33-year-old woman has written to the National Commission for Women (NCW) alleging that Bollywood choreographer Ganesh Acharya used to make her watch porn videos whenever she visited his office in Mumbai.

In a complaint filed with the police, the woman, an assistant choreographer, has alleged that Acharya and two women assaulted her during a function of the Indian Film and Television Choreographers Association (IFTCA) held in suburban Andheri on Sunday.

Besides Acharya, the complainant, Divya Kotian, has named Jayashree Kelkar and Preeti Lad in her complaint for assault, a police official said on Tuesday.

Calls made to Acharya for his reaction remained unanswered.

In her letter to the NCW, Kotian, a resident of suburban Bhayandar, claimed that Acharya forced her to watch adult videos whenever she visited his office.

In her complaint with Amboli police station, Kotian alleged that Acharya was demanding a commission from her for working in the film industry.

Kotian is also a member of the IFTCA.

Acharya, who was elected as a general secretary of the IFTCA, used to frequently call the complainant at the office in Andheri, the police official said quoting the complaint.

On January 26, when Kotian reached the IFTCA office, Acharya shouted at her and announced that she was being "suspended", he said.

Acharya grew furious after Kotian told him that she is a member of the IFTCA and allegedly asked his team member, Jayashree Kelkar, to slap her, the police official said.

"Kelkar and Preeti Lad hit me in public view which was captured on the CCTV," the complaint stated.

Police have registered a non-cognisable (NC) offence and investigating, the official added.

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News Network
February 12,2020

London, Feb 12: Oscar-winning British director Steve McQueen is returning to his art roots with a series of short films at London's Tate Modern art gallery, offering a sensory exploration of black identity.

McQueen, who became the first black director to win the best picture Academy Award in 2014 for "12 Years a Slave", is now based between London and Amsterdam and is focused on championing diversity in the film industry.

Visitors to his new exhibition will be greeted by "Static", a film of New York's Statue of Liberty, scrutinising the iconic symbol from every possible angle at very close range against a deafening backdrop of the helicopter from where the footage was filmed.

"What interests Steve is our view of the world, how humans are trying to represent Liberty," said Fiontan Moran, assistant curator of the exhibition.

"7th Nov, 2001" features a still shot of a body while McQueen's cousin Marcus tells of how he accidentally killed his brother, a particularly traumatic experience for the artist.

"Western Deep" is another visceral work, giving a sense through sights and sounds in an interactive installation of the experiences of miners in South Africa, following them to the bottom of the mine.

"Ashes", meanwhile, is a tribute to a young fisherman from Grenada, the island where McQueen's family originated.

The images of beauty and sweetness filmed from his boat are tragically reversed on the other side of the projection screen, which shows a grave commissioned by McQueen for the eponymous young fisherman, who was killed by drug traffickers.

African-American singer, actor and civil rights activist Paul Robeson (1898-1976) is honoured in "End Credits".

The film shows censored FBI documents detailing the agency's surveillance of Robeson, read by a voice-over artist, for five hours.

"He is... testing the limits of how people can be documented in an era of mass surveillance," said Moran.

In a similarly militant vein, the exhibition features the sculpture "Weight", which was first shown in the prison cell where the writer and playwright Oscar Wilde was imprisoned.

It depicts a golden mosquito net draped over a metal prison bed frame, addressing the theme of confinement and the power of the imagination to break free.

The show runs alongside an exhibition of McQueen's giant portraits of London school classes, many of which appeared on the streets of London last year.

"I remember my first school trip to Tate when I was an impressionable eight-year-old, which was really the moment I gained an understanding that anything is possible," said McQueen, adding it was "where in some ways my journey as an artist first began".

He recently told the Financial Times newspaper the difference between his art films and his feature films was that the former were poetry, the latter like a novel.

"Poetry is condensed, precise, fragmented," he said. "The novel is the yarn".

The exhibition opens on February 13 and runs until May 11.

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