The secrets of Udupi's Madhwa Brahmin kitchen leaked!

[email protected] (News Network | KM Acharya)
August 26, 2015

Udupi, Aug 26: What connects Bisi Bele Hulianna, Saaru, Modaka, Huggi, Majjige Palidya and Drakshi Gojju? These are some of the famed dishes of the Madhwa Brahmin community of Udupi, a coastal town in Karnataka where the Krishna temple acts as a pivot in people's lives.

brahmin

Laying out the geographical expanse and scientific logic to the regions Madhwa Brahmins vegetarian food habits, culinary expert Malati Srinivasan and arts and crafts connoisseur Geetha Rao showcase the hitherto unknown vegetarian recipes from Udupi in their book "The Udupi Kitchen."

The authors straddle the traditional and modern and list what was once easily cooked in Udupi households - spice powders, salads and chutneys, savoury snacks, desserts - and elaborate on several recipes which are all-time favourites like Bisi Bele Hulianna, Saaru, Masal Dose and Modaka.

While Bisi Bele Hulianna is a dish of spicy red gram, rice and vegetables, Saaru is spicy red gram soup, Huggi is rice and green gram with black pepper and cumin and Modaka is dumplings with coconut and jiggery filling.

Majjige Palidya is ash gourd with coconut and cumin in sour yoghurt and Drakshi Gojju is raisins in sweet, sour and spicy gravy.

Split into 12 sections, the Udupi Kitchen, published by Westland Ltd, celebrates vegetarian food with aplomb from a town where food is religion as well as a complete mouth-watering experience.

At the core of Udupi cuisine is the use of indigenous vegetables and fruits, cereals and pulses special to the Parashurama Kshetra and traditional Brahmins ate only vegetarian fare without onion and garlic.

According to the authors, Udupi cuisine has a vast variety and is not limited to tiffins or snacks.

"As I began working on this project, I realised how vast and varied our family’s repertoire of Udupi (Madhwa) cuisine was. I wrote down 175 recipes, but have used about a 100 of them in the book," says Srinivasan.

"Writing a cook book for both Indian and non-Indian readers required that a comprehensive multi-lingual glossary be compiled. It also meant using internationally accepted terminology: 'henchu' or 'tava' became griddle, bandle or 'kadhai' became wok, 'tappele' or 'bartan' became saucepan," says Rao.

She says for some kitchen tools like 'eelgemane' and 'ogarane chamcha', which had no "internationally understood" words, substitute words like curved knife blade and tempering-ladle had to be coined.

The story of Udupi cuisine is the story of how a temple-based, Brahmanical culinary tradition got modernised and became a global phenomenon. Food is religion in Udupi.

Fourteen varieties of food are cooked daily and offered to the deity at different times of the day. The food offered to god is 'naivediya', and the food eaten by human beings is 'prasada', food that is blessed.

In Udupi, meals are served on banana leaves in a particular order. Many recipes and foods have also proven health benefits. For example, dishes made from the inner banana stem prevent kidney stones, pepper rasam helps with the lactation of new mothers, jackfruit seeds have high protein content and so on.

The authors also say that the original of the masal dose or the famous masala dosa is attributed to Udupi.

Before it was invented, plain dosa was served with potato playa, without onions, in a separate cup. With changing food tastes, the Udupi chefs began to saute the mashed potatoes with onions and spices.

"As onions were considered taboo food for orthodox Brahmins, it is said that the doses were stuffed with onion-laced playa, instead of served in a separate cup, so that the onion could be 'hidden'," the authors say.

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Usha moorthy
 - 
Wednesday, 8 Jun 2016

I'm extremely pleased that I now have a book to refer to for genuine udupi food!!! Thanks to the authors for painstakingly bringing together these wonderful recipes!!;

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Ram Puniyani
July 20,2020

As Covid 19 has created havoc all rounds, the rulers of certain countries are using it to further intensify their set agendas. The democratic freedoms are being curtailed in certain forms, the reaction to which has come in America in the form of a campaign, which is opposing “stifling” cultural climate that is imposing “ideological conformity” and weakening “norms of open debate and toleration of differences”. In India similar intimidations have been intensified. In addition the occasion has been used by the sectarian forces first to link the spread of Corona to Muslim community and now in the name of reducing the burden of curriculum certain chapters on core concepts related to Indian nationalism are being deleted from the text books.

It has been reported that chapters on federalism, citizenship, nationalism, secularism, Human Rights, Legal Aid and Local Self Government and the like are being dropped. Education has been an important area for communal forces and they constantly keep saying that leftists have dominated the curriculum content, it suffers from the impact of Macaulay, Marx and Mohammad and so needs to be Indianized. The first such attempt was done when BJP came to power in 1998 as NDA and had Murli Manohar Joshi as the MHRD minister. He brought the changes which were termed as ‘saffronization of education’. Their focus is more on social science. Some of the highlights of this were introduction of subjects like Astrology and Paurohitya, and chapters defending caste system, nationalism of the type of Hitler was praised.

With defeat of NDA in 2004, the UPA did try to rectify some of these distortions. Again after 2014 the RSS affiliates working in the area of education have been active, interacting with MHRD officials to impress upon them the need to change the curriculum matching with their Hindu nationalist agenda. Its ‘Shiksha Sanskriti Utthan Nyas’ has been asking for removal of English, Urdu words in the texts. It has asked for removal of thoughts of Rabindranath Tagore on Nationalism, extracts of autobiography of M F Husain, references to benevolence of Muslim rulers, references to BJP being Hindu party, apology of Dr. Manmohan Singh for anti Sikh pogrom of 1984, the reference to killings of Gujarat carnage in 2002 among others. This they call as Bhartiykaran of syllabus.

As RSS is a multithreaded hydra one of its pracharak Dinanath Batra has set up ‘Shiksha Bachao Abhiyan Samiti’ which has been pressurizing various publishers to drop the books which are not conforming to their ideology. One recalls their pressuring withdrawal of Wendy Doniger’s ‘The Hindus’, as it does present the ancient India through the concerns of dalits and women. Mr. Batra has already come out with a set of nine books for school curriculum, giving the RSS view of the past and RSS understanding of social sciences. These have already been translated into Gujarati and thousands of the sets of these books are being used in Gujarat Schools.

The present step of deleting parts of curriculum which gives the basics of Indian Nationalism, secularism and human rights is a further step in the same direction. These are the topics which have made the Hindu nationalists uncomfortable during last few years. They have been defaming secularism. They removed it from the preamble of Indian constitution, when they put out an ad on the eve of Republic day in 2015. From last few decades since the Ram Temple movement was brought up, simultaneously the secular ethos of India’s freedom movement and secular values of Indian constitution have been constantly criticized. Many an RSS ideologues and BJP leaders have been asking for change of Indian Constitution for this very reason.

Secularism is part of the concept of Indian nationalism. In the name of religious nationalism, sectarian divisive nationalism they have been attacking various student leaders in particular. When we study Nationalism, the very genesis of Indian nationalism tells us the plurality of our freedom movement with its anti colonial roots. The struggle was for Indian nationalism and so the Muslims and Hindu communalists kept aloof from this great struggle against colonial masters, it was this struggle which built the Indian nation with all its diversity.

Similarly as we have equal rights as citizens the chapters on citizenship are being dropped. Federalism has been the core part of India’s administrative and political structure. As the dictatorial tendencies are becoming stronger, federalism is bound to suffer and that explains the dropping of this subject. Democracy is decentralization of power. Power reaching the lowermost part of the system, the villages and average citizens. This got reflected in Local self Government. The power is distributed among villages, cities, state and center. By removing chapters on federalism and local self government, the indications of the ideology of ruling party are on display.

While we are not dealing with all the portents of the planned omissions, one more aspect that related to dropping of chapter on Human rights needs our attention. The concept of Human rights and dignity are interlinked. This concept of Human rights also has international ramifications. India is signatory to many an UN covenants related to Human rights. The indications are clear that now rights will be for the few elite and ‘duties’ for the large deprived sections will be put on the forefront.

In a way this incidental ‘Corona gifted opportunity’ to the ruling Government is being fully used to enhance the agenda of ruling party in the arena of Educational Curriculum. The part of curriculum with which the ruling party is uncomfortable is being removed. This act of omission does supplement their other acts of commission in changing the shape of educational curriculum, which are reflected in RSS affiliates’ suggestions to MHRD regarding Bhartiyakaran of contents of syllabus. As per this the things like regarding the great epics like Ramayana and Mahabharata as History, the things like India having all the stem cell technology, plastic surgery, aviation science etc. will have a place in the changes planned by communal forces!

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News Network
March 28,2020

Bengaluru, Mar 28: A case has been registered against an Infosys employee in Bengaluru for a shocking social media post urging people to "go out and sneeze" and spread the highly contagious COVID-19 virus that has infected over 800 people across the country and claimed 19 lives.

"Let's join hands, go out and sneeze with open mouth in public. Spread the virus," the man wrote on Facebook.
"A case has been registered against the person. Further investigation on. Looking forward to get adequate support from your end during investigation," Sandeep Patil, Joint Commissioner of Police, Crime, Bengaluru city tweeted by tagging along a tweet by Infosys.
Taking congnisance of the post by its employee, the Infosys said the post was "against the code of conduct and its commitment to responsible social sharing".
"Infosys has completed its investigation on the social media post by one of its employees and we believe that this is not a case of mistaken identity," the company said in a statement on Twitter.
"The social media post by the employee is against Infosys' code of conduct and its commitment to responsible social sharing. Infosys has a zero tolerance policy towards such acts and has accordingly, terminated the services of the employee," the statement added.

Earlier this month, the IT firm had vacated one of its buildings in Bengaluru after an employee was suspected to be infected.

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News Network
February 14,2020

Bhuj, Feb 14: In a horrifying incident, as many as 68 undergraduate girls were paraded through their college into the restroom and forced to individually remove their undergarments to prove that they were not menstruating. 

This shameful exercise was conducted at Shri Sahjanand Girls’ Institute (SSGI) in Gujarat’s Bhuj under the supervision of principal and other teachers. 

It all began after the hostel rector complained to the principal that some of the inmates had been violating the Hindu religious norms specifically for menstruating females.

According to the sect’s norms, menstruating females are barred from entering the temple and kitchen. They are even forbidden from touching other students. However, the hostel administration reportedly complained to principal Rita Raninga that some girls who were having their periods not just mingled with other hostel inmates, but also entered the kitchen and ventured near the temple on the premises. 

“It was sheer mental torture and we don’t have words to describe it,” a student who underwent the traumatic experience said, adding that there were total 68 girls who were forced to pass through the test.

“The hostel administration levelled this allegation and insulted us on Wednesday. On Thursday, when we were attending lectures, rector Anjaliben called the principal and complained about this. We were forced to leave our classrooms and queue up outside in the passage. The principal abused and insulted us, asking which of us were having our periods. Two of us who were menstruating stepped aside,” said another victim.

“Despite this, we were all taken to the washroom. There, female teachers asked us to individually remove our undergarments so they could check if we were menstruating,” she added.

Another teenage undergraduate said, “We come from farflung villages. The college campus houses a school that runs classes from Class 1to 12. They provide hostel facilities to the school students. The college does not have its own hostel. We live with the school-kids in their hostel.”

She added, “The principal, hostel rector and the trustees harass us regularly over the issue of menstruation. We are punished for having periods. This happens even if we follow their religious rules. They made us remove our undergarments because they thought some of us were lying about not having periods, and mingling with the others against rules. But the humiliation meted out to us on Thursday was the last straw. When we protested against this, trustee Pravin Pindoria told us that we could take legal action if we wanted but we would have to first leave the hostel. He also forced the students to sign a letter saying nothing happened in college. But enough is enough.”

Kutch University authorities have, meanwhile, swung into action and a five-member team including in-charge vice-chancellor, Darshna Dholakia, and two other senior female professors visited the college on Thursday. “We will speak to the students and the college authority and later initiate appropriate action based on the findings,” Dholakia said.

Run by followers of Swaminarayan Mandir, the college was set up in 2012 but moved into a new building on the premises of Shree Swaminarayan Kanya Mandir in 2014. The college which offers BCom, BA and BSc courses has about 1,500 students of which 68, who come from remote villages, stay in the hostel on campus. The college is known for its pro-Hindutva stance.

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